Isolation in O'Hara

If you've ever been to the Canadian Rocky Mountains, you've probably heard of the elusive Lake O'hara. You may be wondering why this lake is so popular and so widely spoken about. Aside from the fact its probably one of the most beautiful and serene lakes I have visited, it is also one of the hardest to get access to. There are a few options available to you, all of which sell out within seconds from being released.

Classic view of Lake O'hara

It is located 10 minutes west of Lake Louise on the Highway 1 with a turn-out specifically for this place. To get to the lake there are 2 options. Option 1: Get a spot on the bus that Parks Canada runs from the car park to the lodges. However with this option you have to be well and truly planning ahead as majority of these spots throughout summer are snapped up come late January

Yes, you read that right. The SUMMER spots are taken by the winter prior. Option 2: hike up a 11km dirt road. Not the most scenic but the option I had no choice but to do. Due to COVID Parks Canada decided not to run the buses, so I had no choice but to hike in via the road with my 30lb pack on my back- and alone. You can also choose to do this in one day- as its only around 2 hours one way walking in, or a 5-10 minute bus ride in. During my lone walk I also noticed many trail runners going up for a scenic jaunt (not my idea of fun).

Campsite 19 at Lake O'Hara

When at the lake there are a few alternatives to where you can choose to sleep, if you decide to stay. Firstly is the more expensive of the three, Lake O'Hara lodge- it is located front and centre of the lake and is a large lodge surrounded by smaller individual cabins that follow the water line. All facing the water they would be the most beautiful way to start your day. With this option however it does come at a cost and is the most expensive option. Secondly is the Elizabeth Parker Hut. Probably the more popular option which is run by the Alpine Club of Canada is a standalone building a little further from the lake. Made to sleep multiple people at once with a small kitchen and a common area it is cozy and a welcome warmth in winter for those who ski in. Lastly the campground. This sells out in January when the spots are released. There are only around 30 camp spots and they sell out within minutes for the entirety of the summer. This is the option I chose. It is probably once of the nicest campgrounds I have stayed at also. A large open common area with tables and a large fire pit which branches off into the trees with the tent pads spread among the trees.

Back in January I managed to somehow snag a spot at O'hara for myself and Andrew (by me I mean Kim booked it under my name and one for herself the same days). Come August however, Andrew decided to change his mind so I decided I would go without him. Thankfully Kim and her husband Sam were also there so I wasn't completely alone- they however had gone up Cathedral Mountain the night prior and camped up there, only to come down the same day I hike in. So early morning in mid august I got Andrew. to drop me off at the trail head and my lone jaunt begun.

As you can imagine when I say that it is a 11km dirt road in, it was not the most interesting. As scenic as the views were at around 1.5km I was head down, feet going. For another 8.5km it was very much the same with the only contact being with the Park Ranger to confirm my stay. After reaching camp I spent the next 40 minutes trying to decipher how to put the fly on the tent. That makes me sound like I am an absolute newbie. On the contrary I am well seasoned to hiking and camping and had borrowed Chloe's backcountry tent which was much more confusing. As much as a two pole tent can be I guess. To be honest I might have just had a serious brain fart moment from being a little tired.

Canoe Dock at the lake. Far right The Prospect.

When at Lake Ohara the world is your oyster. There are endless trails that snake around the lake up into the high alpine. The alpine circuit, Lake Oesa, Lake McAruther and the Prospect to name a few. Since booking this trip I had researched hikes I wanted to do and the most obvious and also the closest to camp was the Prospect. The most recognized view point of O'hara looking from above it is only a 45 minute walk from the tents. Winding quickly though the dense trees from lakeside up to the side of the pass. Traversing over a boulder field up above the pass, you're essentially above Lake O'hara and ave your pick of view points. I chose to walk to the far most point and perch myself on one of the slabs for lunch. As this is a very popular route and the closest, it usually is full of instagramers fighting for the one shot to post online. Thankfully as buses weren't running and people had to walk in I was up there completely alone. There is something refreshing being up on a ledge alone, only in your thoughts.

Post lunch since I had somehow found my second wind of energy I decided to start going up towards Yukness Ledges. Since it was 2pm and I only had a granola bar with me I thought I'd get as far as I felt comfortable and turn around before I started running out of water. En route I decided to move towards the Opabin Lakes instead as they were closer. Meadows with trickling streams and wild flowers running ramped. Something in the realm of a scene in Bambi. I even made friends with some wildlife. Hundreds of them following me like a bad smell and they couldn't get enough of me. Pity I had to swish them when they bit me. (Honestly the worst bugs and mosquitos I have EVER encountered). The lakes had some icebergs in them still and the mountains above were starp and ragged. It was beautiful. I could only last around 5 minutes before I ran back to the tree line for freedom. Instead of going the way I came through I decided to go down East Opabin trail to the lake side, following the stream down to a waterfall before it reached the lake.

Post afternoon hike I decided to make a coffee and relax while waiting for Kim and Sam to make their descent down from the glacier (which by the way had no defined trail. Once day I'll be able to have the confidence to join them). Since it was around 35 degrees Celsius and I'd only hiked that day I decided to go to the canoe dock and potential go for a swim. One thing to note is Lake O'Hara is surrounded by glaciers and is fed by them. Even on such a hot day jumping in I felt my skin instantly pierce with ice and only lasted maybe a minute in the water.

Wandering back to the site Kim and Sam were there. Post pitching tents and catching up from the adventures of the day we decided to make some dinner. It was only 5pm and we were all ravenous. One decision I do not regret is taking Ramen noodles and frozen vegetables! Honestly after a long day of moving two packets of that with extra spice were exactly what I needed. They had a Kathmandu curry and Mushroom Risotto (SO DELICIOUS). One thing I am torn about is dehydrated meals. They are expensive and you can make your own meals for cheaper, but the meals you buy are delicious! A night surrounding the fireplace was well called for. Many campers decided to do the same. From all round Canada from Saskatoon to Vancouver, we also met some local Canmore families. One of my favourite things about camping is meeting new people and talking with them and learning a bunch of new things.

Me being me, I was in bed by 9pm and loving every second of it.

With little sleep and a warm drizzly morning I decided a 5.30 am wake up call was what I needed. I decided since the plan was originally to go to Lake McArthur with Kim and Sam, but they had done two very hard long days and were too sore to hike more, that I would go for breakfast up to Lake Oesa. Pre making some coffee and boiling my water for my dehydrated oatmeal and peanut butter, I set off just after dawn- again alone. Weaving around the lake edges until the waterfalls, switch backing up into the forest. It was a little daunting going through the trees at the most active time of day for bears. For peace of mind I was walking with my podcast on speaker, clapping like a maniac and occasionally talking to them as if they understood what I was saying . Walking the same way that Lawrence Grassi once did, up the steps he built himself, alongside the cascading water falls before reaching the alpine meadows for just over an hour. Unfortunately the clouds were grey and just above the mountains, but nothing could hide the glacial blue that Lake Oesa shines. Again my friends decided to join as soon as I delved into my well earned breakfast. It was more of a scoff of food than an enjoyable relaxed breakfast, but I can't complain as it may have been the most scenic breakfast I'll ever have.

More so running down from the lake down past the waterfalls to Lake O'hara, as by that stage my nerves of bears had grown ten fold- for no apparent reason as it was lighter and warmer with no visible signs of a bear being there after I had already gone up that morning. However once I got down the lakeside there was not sign of any wind and I found a big boulder to perch my smelly self on and just enjoy the morning for a little bit. The lake was such a deep blue hue, with the dark green of the surrounding forests reflecting into it. The sun peaking over the top of Mount Victoria where I had just ran from.

What felt like hours, but was merely 20 -30 minutes I decided to slowly start meandering back to camp, but was mesmerized before I could reach it. It was the most glass-like water I have ever seen. Almost a complete mirror image of the mountains above .

Within 10 minutes I think I would have taken at least 15 photos almost of the exact same image. It was breathe-taking. After almost using all my remaining battery I trudged on back to camp, unwillingly leaving the beauty behind me.

Un-showered and unwilling to leave Kim, Sam and myself grudgingly packed up camp to start the hike back to civilization. (Okay overstatement as this place is relatively busy and does have a lot more amenities than most backcountry camping). Tired, sore and cranky are probably the best way to describe us, all with new blisters, horse fly welts and a little bit of a tan. I think by around 3km into the walk I was done. I was too tired to care but knew the longer I took the worst it would feel. Every corner after 8km felt like the last corner which opened into the carpark, only to be disappointed when I realized that wasn't the case.

Overall this experience was one I will never forget. It was one of the most beautiful places I have been and one that I will definitely go back to. Next time however I think I'll bus in. If you ever have a chance I would highly recommend it and you'd be silly not to go (just like Andrew).