Assiniboine paradise

You may have heard of the infamous Mt Assiniboine. She's the Matterhorn of Canada and a wonder to see. The only way to see her, is to get those boots on and get going, or if you have a pretty penny hanging around, you could catch a ride on the helicopter in.

For YEARS I had been wanting to get my butt out here. For YEARS I also missed a spot at a campsite as well as not having anyone to go with. So on a random workday whilst I was "working", I stumbled upon the BC parks website and low and behold a night on September long weekend became available for Lake Magog. Of course I booked it without even asking my partner and all but forced him to come with me.

To chose which option to take into the park is one of the harder decisions. The three most popular hike in routes are on the Alberta side. Access from Sunshine Village being the longest with the least amount of elevation, reaching over 36km one way. This route you pass through Porcupine campsite where you can stop and stay a night, through Lake Og and then if you're staying all the way to Magog. During regular years you are able to get a spot on the Sunshine Gondola, but due to COVID, this was closed so a walk up the access road for 6km was tacked onto an already long day. Next both coming from Mt Shark entrance, either Wonder pass or Assiniboine pass both floating around the 28km mark. Majority of hikers if they chose this route go in via Assiniboine and then out Wonder, as Wonder has the higher of the elevation gain both routes come out by the lodge. Fourth there is an entrance on the B.C side which is accessed via a long drive up a forestry road starting near Assiniboine Lake.

Also if people don't feel like hiking the more expensive route is via Helicopter. They fly in from Mt.Shark and also from Canmore. This costs a pretty penny and is only around 8 and 15 minutes respectively.

Assiniboine Lodge

Within the park there are multiple options for accommodation. Lake Og, Lake Magog, the Naiset huts and Assiniboine Lodge. For those who are also more mountaineering minded can venture to Hind hut further towards the base of Assiniboine.

Lake Og being a further 6km from the lodge, Lake Magog at the base of the mountain, and the lodge and huts less than 1km from waters edge of Lake Magog.

Since Andrew and I only were lucky enough to bag one night spot at Lake Magog we decided to take in Wonder Pass, as it is known as the more scenic route, even though I knew it was the greater elevation gain of the multiple choices. 65L packs and plenty of gear to go we set off early morning in the dark from Mt Shark. Thankfully we are use to this road and drive it regularly, but those who don't it is an almost unmaintained dirt road that is either from Highway 40 or from Canmore.

Following the service road up from the Mt Shark ski area is boring and not that scenic, but has minimal elevation. Within 5 minutes of setting off my backpack was saturated at the base and my water pack had decided to start leaking. 1km down and 27 to go.

The path at this point for the first few km is very obvious and essentially a road, slowly winding through the forest before meeting over a small canyon and crystal water.

At this stage Andrew was still very enthusiastic (I didn't last long). Small amount of inclines before shooting over a hump across and back down over another bridge which marks 6km mark. Another waterfall and ravine, with a few jumping spots which would be amazing mid summer for a waterhole. September however was well too cold for me to look at swimming.

The path is a long straight stretch at this point, with small pockets of elevation and a few campsites along side. If you didn't feel like a full 30km hike in one day there are the sites on route that you could stay at, but personally we decided to charge on through and do it all in one stretch. At this stage both Assiniboine pass and Wonder pass are on the exact same path.

At around the half way mark there is a rocky outcrop which you can either traverse behind or shoot down to Marvel Lake water front. We opted for option one and clambered over the rocky outcrop and along down to the rangers outpost. Literally in the middle of nowhere there is a horse stable and log cabin. Typical Canadian wilderness hut if you can imagine one. Red, white and fully made of log. It is so beautiful and old. Behind the cabin the valley opens up and is wide and expansive.

View of the valley just from the Rangers station

From the rangers station the paths fork off. To the west is Wonder pass which traverse alongside Marvel Lake from above or alternatively from the North along the base of the valley is Assiniboine pass. As mentioned we decided to take Wonder Pass. The scene from the expansive valley changes very quickly from grass and brushes to dense forests and flowers.

Walk bridge just after Rangers

Just before darting back into the forest there is a small stream and a walk bridge that you must cross. Classic backcountry bridge of 2 large beams and only one side of railing. One of which I though I would tumble over with my large backpack throwing my balance off.

The forest gets more and more dense with wildflowers galore and trees so close together it'd be hard to fit through. Through a 1km section of forest we saw countless bear scat and thankfully no bears. Which was surprising as this area is known for them. For the next 4km or so above the lake with minimal views and very slight incline.

From above Marvel Lake is just that, a deep blue hue that almost expands the entire valley. Glacier topped mountains in the far end of the valley. It really is named appropriately. At this pointy energy was waining and somehow Andrews increased. Sometimes that man surprises me and all of a sudden becomes super fit.

Many avalanche paths crossed and many complaints from me we were slowly making our way up to Wonder pass. A few sympathetic looks from passers coming out from the park and a few comments about the switch backs coming our way.

I had spoken to my friend prior to taking this route and she said the hardest part of the trial was the switch backs right before the pass itself.

Below is how I felt whilst doing it with my heavy pack and already hiking in 5-6 hours. . . .

As you can tell I was LOVING life.

No, really I was. I was just cranky, tired and sore but loving every single second of it. One of the many joys of hiking.

There was maybe only five switch backs, nothing too steep but after what felt like 100km of walking, I was DEAD. The pass itself was a gradual steady climb almost straight after the switch backs. Tundra and rock fields overlooking Marvel lake behind us with winding mud trails going off in every direction. At one point Andrew even noticed a large dug out area- which he said a bear had done, preparing itself for winter. Thankfully no such bear was seen. I can honestly and truly say one reaching the high point of the pass and looking down onto the lodging area and Lake Magog, was a hard one. I was exhausted and my feet were beyond sore and I had done close to 30km. Andrew was also very cranky and moody, just as I was.

Trudging up Wonder Pass

On the plus side this side of the pass was filled with hundred of larch trees in full glow. A larger canyon with a snow melt waterfall flooding through it. But to be honest, neither of us really appreciated how pretty this portion was in our state of exhaustion.

Among the larches were the Naiset huts, spread far and few between. I defiantly want to come back and stay in one, just a classic wooden cabin in the middle of nowhere. From there Assiniboine Lodge is located a few hundred metres away, a large chalet towering over the lake with probably the best view of Assiniboine.

We chose to dart down to the water in hope for the quicker route to the campsite. At this point we were admiring the surroundings but acting life itself. All I wanted to do was sit down and take my damn shoes off.

our little orange home for the night with Assiniboine

For what felt like an hour walking around Lake Magog, but probably only 30 minutes, we made it to the campsites. These sites are scattered over a large area and theres around 40 sites, with a few cooking and hang out areas in amongst. Each site feels so isolated as its another 50 metres or so to your neighbour. Large open structures for cooking and hanging out. We found a spot nice and close to a cooking area, but probably more so because we just couldn't be bothered wandering around further to find another. Total time walking would have been around 7.5 hours including all the stops and lunch.

I think this may be one of my most scenic camping spots I have ever stayed at.

Once reaching camp, wishing my coffee was pumped via IV into my blood stream, many snacks and not nearly enough water, we finally set up. Since. I had also been very persistent with watching the weather, I knew that snow was more than likely and today would probably be the only time we actually saw the peak and somewhat clear visibility. Minus the overlying dark clouds. After sitting for around 30-45 minutes and it only being around 3pm, I essentially dragged Andrew up the Nublet for the classic view of Assiniboine and Sunburst peak. "Sure, lets add another 7km onto an already 30km day". So as you can probably tell he wasn't very happy with me at this point.

Walking through the lakes past Elizabeth Rummel hut on the side of the lake whilst wandering through the wildflower meadows and making enough noise to scare away any predator (more so my laboured breathing if anything). We also saw a kayak out on the lake and I only assumed they were fishing. To the viewpoint its a short uphill with minimal labour before popping out into the rocky outcrop. Our only friends at this point being some marmots from afar

view from the Nublet

As cranky as we both were the view was worth every complaint. Until of course as you can tell by my hair in the above photo, the weather had started turning and sprinkles of snow started to make an appearance. We practically ran back to camp to start our dinner before making an early exit to bed. We jumped in the tent around 6.30pm and could hear a whole bunch of people hanging out at the communal area, but with rain pouring and our bodies in utter agony, we passed out before the ranger came round at 7pm. Said ranger was also the person who told us what time our helicopter ride was out. Yes you read that right. We got the helicopter out. This essentially was probably the only reason Andrew came with me because I said I'd treat him to this.

Many people do one in and hike the other. We decided to hike in and enjoy the views, working for that ride out.

With rain pouring down all night and being so tired nothing was going to keep us awake- except Andrew as his sleeping pad was deflating (haha). Woke up bright and early from over a 12 hour sleep to a very dark and heavy looking tent. Assuming it was just overcast we soon realized it was snow. Opening the tent doors to reveal a winter wonderland which happened overnight. Probably close to 10cm, in mid September. For anyone who doesn't live in the Bow valley and surrounding are- this is not unusual unfortunately.

We decided to wander on up to the communal area to eat breakfast and have all essential coffee. It seems every person camping and the same idea. Made friends with 3 separate groups and also stumbled upon one of our friends! He and his buddies had been out there for multiple days, and he was carrying a blow up kayak. Was he the person on the lake!?

As we had missed the ranger we had to make sure we were at the lodge by 10pm to know when our ride was. Numb fingers, wet equipment and snow made a fun pack-up. It was only around a 1.5km walk from the site to the lodge which we really underestimated our speed. But the snow made the landscape so beautiful and thankfully it was warm enough that the snow was melting relatively quickly. Once at the lodge no-one had left yet as the clouds were all so low and dense that the helicopters couldn't even leave Canmore. Scheduled to leave at 12.50pm and flights not starting until around 11.30 made for a long and cold morning.

At least I had 4 layers on (more than I did hiking in -17), and Assiniboine decided she would play peek-a-boo and occasionally come out into sight.

I was super nervous to go on the Helicopter. I have NEVER done that before, and the fact that the weather wasn't playing nice made me even more nervous. With 6 people on our flight the helicopter flew on in and they didn't brief us at all, just told us to duck and run, quickly put on seatbelts and you are good to go. As someone who is a nervous Nelly on a good day this didn't sit well with me.

Andrew luckily got front and centre in the Heli and was front with the pilot. (watch the video below, apologies for the cameraman as I think he was just so excited) . The Heli flew us so close to the cliffs and the weather systems would cause us to drop ever so slightly now and again, that it was causing me to death grip the handles- cos apparently in my mind that would stop me from dying in case of emergency. . . .

The flight in total took 8 minutes.... 57 times quicker than our hike. (Legit, I calculated the minutes). Blew my mind. But at least this way we saw Marvel lake in its true glory with such a deep and vibrant blue. I do love that each glacial fed lake here is a different colour depending on the surrounding rock.

One night for me was just a taste. It has given me more drive to get back there and spend more time exploring and actually enjoying the surroundings. Not just being a cranky sleepy butt.

I'll be back Assiniboine.