Chester lake

One of the more popular lake hikes, whether snow, sun, or cloud, hidden under the towering Mt Chester. So popular that you shouldn't be surprised if there is at least 20 cars in the lot. This isn't a surprise as the trail is short with around 400m elevation gain and only takes an hour and a half to the spectacular views from the frozen lake up towards Mt Chester and the Fortress, or even from the direction you came from with Commonwealth Peak and Birdwood mountain (featured in the Smutwood post). A true family friendly adventure with maximum views for minimal time.

The first time I explored this are was back in mid December on a bluebird -18 degree day with Kim. You should definitely go check out Kims adventures on her Instagram ( @Kimay71). Located along the Smith-dorian trail about 5 minutes past Mt Engadine lodge on the right, there is a large carpark. Upon pulling up we were one of four cars who decided to come up early. By early I mean 10.30am, which for anyone who knows Canmore, knows that that is beyond a late start. The trail runs parallel to the highway, there are multiple trails from this one carpark, so the chance of going the wrong trail is likely. within 50 metres the trail breaks off into two. To the left runs the trail for cross-country skiers and down the slope to the right is the hiker/snowshoe trail. Don't let the small elevation gain trick you as it may only be 400m over the length of the hike, but the elevation are short and steep followed by long flat switch backs. after the step short switch backs the first clearing opens up and here you have that full face of Mt Chester looming ahead.

Prior to reaching the lake I had no idea it was literally at the base on that cliff face. The ascent up the first 40 minutes or so of the trail there are minimal views as you are tree locked in the switch back system but occasionally you get a like sneak preview of Chester. Eventually the meadows open and trees disperse, pillows of snow and a small trailing walk way leads the way. Note: Don't go off trail as this is where you will end up knee to mid thigh deep, and take it from me as this happened more than once to me just on the way in.

One last trail into the trees and the smallest of inclines before the lake opens up and the face of Mt Chester is in full view. In the far back is the Fortress and not too far past the lake are the elephant rocks. This day Kim and I chose not to head up to the rocks as it was -18 not including the wind chill and we were frozen to the bone after eating and being blasted by that wind.

Don't think that on the way back that the views are behind you, the descent back to the car has what I would consider and even better viewpoint than on the way up. Commonwealth and Birdwood tower above everything else, illuminated against the deep blue as seen at the top of the page. (One thing you'll learn living in Canada is the prettiest finest days are always the god damn coldest). It also only takes just over an hour to trudge back down and through the trees.

The second trip to Chester lake was slightly different. This time I had the two skinniest planks strapped to my feet. Anyone who knows me knows that I don't ski usually, I snowboard. Only recently since the past Christmas have to started to cross country ski. Upon looking at the trails, it is listed as a cross-country ski trail and a moderate track (the one Andrew, Emma and myself did 3 times into ever skiing was listed as hard), so I assumed it was doable and had heard it was track set. Oh boy was I in for a surprise. I had contacted Kim again to come with and her husband and herself decided to take their touring gear.

Pulling up to the carpark at 11:30 there were at least 15-20 cars already there, and not a single person had cross country skis. Every other skier was on their touring skis or people were snowshoeing. Reluctantly putting on my skis and going up the same path as the prior visit. Instead of dipping right down the snowshoe trail Andrew and myself went left with im saying "you'll be waiting for us". She couldn't have been more wrong.

I had been told that this trail was track set for cross country skis. Somehow it is now more a widened path with some for of ski trails that have been only slightly packed by touring skis. The first few hundred metres are at a steeper incline and not too friendly for xc skis, the touring skis with skins fly up cos they're actually able to get some grip. Here I threw my first mini tantrum. There is a fork about 20 minutes in and both say are xc ski trails. The route to the left is the "alternate route". I had read on blogs and trail guides that people generally go counter clockwise and follow the alternate route. The widened trails turns to a flattened track set with no middle. Steady incline and minimal breaks. There were a total of 3 meltdowns on my behalf and one internal one for Andrew. I mostly ended up de-skiing on any incline and trudging up.

Once the forked trails meet again the trail is now nicely trod down and wide enough that a newbie like myself is able to plow down. The steady incline continues and is persistent, making it more difficult for xc skis. Andrew and myself even had a few comments by other trail users about the difficulties of our choice of equipment. Winding through the trees you evenly plateau out leading into a clearing. The clearing full of pillowed snow and minimal tracks. Back into the trees you dip, winding so closely to the trees, where I was terrified of sliding into a tree well and not being able to get myself out. At this point you are able to see the almost vertical crevices on Chesters face, knowing too well you are not too far from the lake.

The incline fully plateaus and trees disappear, with the mountains ahead fully exposed and a thin stretch of pine trees outline the lakeshore. Pretty sure Andrew and I stopped in the exact same spot that Kim and I had when we hiked. Having lunch and pondering where Kim & Sam were as I was 10000% sure they we hadn't beaten them up. Mostly as I had packed about 50 self-pity parties and walked majority of the way. about 15 minutes pass and I see and head behind us from the Elephant rocks Kim and Sam bounding down, Beka on their heels. Kim had said about 50m from where we had stopped they had written me a message in the snow telling us they had gone that way. I felt terrible as Im sure they would have been waiting at least 30 minutes for us (minimum).

For the descent back to the trucks we convince Sam and Kim to join us the way we went, as they had decided as they had Beka and touring skis and that they remember it being track set, they hadn't wanted to disrupt the tracks and annoy other trail users. Obviously they went ahead of Andrew and I as Beka was a trail blazer and I am like Bambi on ice when going downhill. This direction was a breeze compared to the uphill.

The xc skis are much more forgiving on the flats and downhills, but with no tracks it is more like a snowplow clearing the streets at full speed (or in my case 5km/h). Andrew stumbled on a downhill once and I would have been at least 10 times or so. Two of which Kim was filming which was even more embarrassing. The easiest ay to describe how I look going downhill on my xc skis is like someone who is attempting to go into the splits and has a massive hunchback. I have some work to do in order to get the correct technique. At one point when flipping myself over to a position I could get up from after bailing, I managed to smoke myself in the head with my left ski. Andrew was behind me thinking I am an absolute idiot.

Not long before you scoot past the forks we passed on the route up, surprised by how quickly we had come down and unsure if it was actually the same spot. The 20 minutes of the initial trail pass in a blur and you are spat out back at the carpark.

One thing I can say for sure is I WILL NOT be going up that trail again on xc skis, coming down was a tonne of fun but Ill leave the uphill for the snowshoes or hiking. As much as I had hated the uphill and had an absolute meltdown on multiple occasions, the enjoyment of scooting downhill had made it all worth the while.

One of my favourite aspects of hiking and exploring this area is how close it id to Mt Engadine lodge. Top secret but on Sundays after 2pm there is cheese boards, apple strudels and endless hot drinks for $22.50 or strudels and hot drinks for $8.50. The lodge is a destination in itself set nestled in the trees looking down Smuts creek and at Tent ridge with yurts and little cabins. It is a log cabin with stone fireplaces laced with antlers and rustic charm. After the day we had it was the perfect way to wind down and allow my hip flexors to return back to normal.

For snowshoers and hikers or anyone with a touring set up I would recommend doing this as its short and sweet. Any one who is relatively new at xc skiing like myself I would recommend against it, unless you like packing tantrums and hiking your way up skis in hand.