A long day to Smuts.
- Daena Bamford
- Aug 11, 2019
- 5 min read

Smutwood Peak. A lesser known hike, which by no means should be overlooked. This hike is known for the amazing views of Birdwood Mountain - the most cliche shaped mountain ever.
(literally a sharp triangle).
This has been on my radar for awhile, but due to having to be an adult finally, I hadn't had a chance. Also due to the fact it is known for Grizzly Bears, I had no desire to do it by myself (which I would say is dangerous unless you really know what you're doing).
Located in Kananaskis country, on the southern end of Spray Lakes, it is one that is difficult to see from the road as it is tucked away behind Tent Ridge and Down the valley behind Engadine lodge.

As soon as you cross over the little bridge after the lodge take a quick left and the carpark is right there. Don't be surprised if there is plenty of cars as this spot is also used for Commonwealth lakes etc.
The first part of this hike is literally so chill. Wandering along the road, which you can do 4 across, which is unusual for most hiking trails. You will keep going, there are a few smaller trails on the sides but keep going. You come to a large fork in the trail, follow this to the right. The left takes you to commonwealth (We were literally watching the map trying not to turn off the wrong way, so I suggest using All Trails for this).
The wide path soon turns into a very narrow winding trail through the woods - which is where I started to really worry about a bear- and trust me you will have a branch or 6 hit you in the head, or stumble over a log or 3. Very little elevation at this point. Still winding through the denser trees before popping out into a waterfall. This waterfall is raging and post hike would be a perfect little swimming spot.

This trail continues, and when we did it the ground floor was still rather wet and muddy, so jumping around mud puddles and teetering across logs which someone had graciously placed along this whole section. Because you know typical girls, not wanting to get the already muddy hiking boots dirty, whereas typical Andrew plonking straight through the mud. Eventually the mud clears into a more of a definable trail and the trees disperse into an open meadow with the stream surrounded by wildflowers in a big bowl surrounded by the towering cliffs. (At this point you are directly behind Mt Birdwood, which we were yet to realize).
Winding through the trees on a very thin trial which also is scattered with lots of mud and branches which are perfect eye poking height (for someone 5'3), alongside the creek for what seems like a few minutes before the trees clear and the stream disappears off to the base of the waterfall to the right, the meadows start to flourish. Wildflowers galore.
- please note that picking and taking the wildflowers is frowned upon-
The wildflowers turn to avalanche shoots (you literally will be clambering over branches and trees), winding through and eventually across an open rock avalanche shoot- where inukshuk mark out the desired route. You are now in the back bowl. This is a wide expansive bowl on the backside of Mount Birdwood (we didn't realize this until we were at the top). Large boulders litter the floor, high steep rock walls of scree surround you and ice and snow face you at the base of the pass.
Here the pass up to the path is steep and relentless for a few hundred meters before switch backing and coming face-to-face with snow patches. Traversing across the snow is a little daunting when you are the first to do so in the day. (Thankfully Andrew who was wearing runners, decided to go first) You cross 3-4 of these longer snow patches, alternating with scree and loose rocks which makes for a good time. Nearer the rounded top the grass reappears and low lying wildflowers start to appear once again.

This is the first look at the lakes and Mount Smuts. Much to my surprise we had been looking at Mount Smutwood the whole time. - Yes they are two different mountains- Literally across from where you are standing is where you will end up.
We decided to stop for a minute, catch our breath (mainly me), have a quick snack (mainly me cos I was hangry), and try and figure out where we were. From here if you head right and traverse across above the lake you will head to Mount Smutwood, if you head to the left and traverse across the snow patches you will head towards Mt Smuts.
The steady incline and traverse isn't as noticeable as it is extended. It is straight on up to the pass between Mount Birdwood and Mount Smuts. Here the views of the mountains open up. You can really see the dominance of Mount Birdwood and its almighty steepness (looks like someone got a giant knife and cut it down the side). It makes for a nice little snack spot while you catch you're breathe and start again up the ridge.

Take note that the path isn't obvious, we somewhat bush whacked to what somewhat resembled a trail. Here we noticed a bear track - which is no surprise as this trail is known for bears and most people will see one or 11. The trail is a steady incline for awhile and switches back and forth slowly making its way up. In and out of scree and grass patches.
The trail meanders to the left as you are looking at a peak which looks like you need to climb overtop, but you head left. Following the trail you scramble on large boulders following the inukshuks. Another hundred metres or so the trail peers overtop looking to the north and the bowl underneath the summit.
Trail to the immediate right is the lower peaks summit which you can go to the top of, or head further to the right following the Ridgeline to the cliffs edge. At this point I was fading away to a shadow and had a hangry tantrum and needed to eat lunch. From here you can see everything you hiked up except the first flat meanders. At the Ridgeline you can continue to the summit for another 400 metres with a decent amount of elevation to go. (I opted out as I had a beer for lunch and was tired enough that I didn't care if I summited or not).

On route down while the girls went to the real summit, Andrew and I decided to take our time and walk down to the trees and try to get out of the wind (as it was a bit much). Someone literally took a nap under the tree, and it wasn't me. The down was a lot easier than the up thats for sure. However navigating the downhill of the snowy traverse was a bit more difficult as we were slipping and sliding all over the show. (Looking back I should have just scree ran down the snow, but hey you live and you learn). Once down the pass we all went silent. 6 hours of hiking and we were all for sure well and truly done. Ready to go to bed.
Please note that this is not an easy hike. If you don't feel comfortable, do not do it. Also be Bear aware. There is a lot of bears known to this area.
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